$349.98

Renogy 200 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Starter Kit with Wanderer

5 out of 5
  • Description
  • Reviews (3)

Description

Renogy 200W Monocrystalline Starter Kit is designed specifically for customers new to solar. The Starter Kit is great for off-grid applications, such as RVs, trailers, boats, sheds, and cabins – providing many benefits, including, but not limited to, quiet power production and grid independence….

3 reviews for "Renogy 200 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline Solar Starter Kit with Wanderer"


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    I installed this kit in my motor home to eliminate having to run the generator or plug in to shore power every couple of days. I would recommend adding an inline fuse and a cutoff switch if you purchase this kit. Everything included from Renogy was packaged securely and all components seem to work as expected. This was my first solar install and I had no background in this technology so I watched a few YouTube videos to get an idea of how others were doing their installs. Overall I am very happy with this product.


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    Installed this system on my Toy Hauler RV. It is keeping the two batteries charged very nicely. We can watch a movie at night, and the batteries are fully charged by the next evening. I suspect we could watch a couple of movies, but I haven’t done this yet. We use LED light bulbs throughout the RV to reduce consumption. I wish more people would go solar and use their generators less. Solar won’t power the microwave or air conditioner, but it powers everything else.Some people complain about the controller, but I think it does fine. The complaint is that it doesn’t have a meter to show voltage or current. In my opinion, you only want this in the beginning to see how efficient your system is. The controller has LEDs that show when it is charging and when it is in maintenance charge mode (batteries full). I have an inexpensive volt meter that plugs into the 12 volt outlet. Good enough for me.Do not buy the huge fuse holder and 100A fuses that appear as “Items other people bought with this.” The correct fuses are 15A and 30A, and you can use standard automotive fuse holders. There is an inexpensive meter that appears when you purchase this, and I recommend that you fully read the instructions and develop a plan before buying it. This meter can only tell you what is happening at the point of installation. For example, some people install this between the panels and the controller (shows panel output), between the controller and the batteries (shows controller output), or between the batteries and the load (shows what the appliances are actually using from the battery). In my opinion, the last application is the only one I care about on an ongoing basis, and the installation for this application is independent of the solar install.Also, take the time to look up the recommended roof attachment procedures for your type of roof. I have an EPM roof, so I looked at the manufacturer videos for attaching a fan to an EPM roof and used those as a guide. I was surprised to learn that butyl tape is the first line of defense and the self-leveling caulk was the second line of defense. If the roof leaks, dry rot will likely follow, and that can be expensive at best or ruin the RV.Some people commented that the connectors are difficult to separate, but there is an inexpensive tool you can buy at checkout to make this easy.The instructions say to hook up the solar panels last or cover them so they don’t produce a charge until after they are connected to the controller. I cut cardboard covers from the shipping box and taped them to the panels. This allowed me to lay out everything before the final attachment.


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    I installed this on my trailer. I liked the fact that the charge controller could have handled up to four panels. The 200w setup is adequate for my needs. I added a second deep discharge battery to the trailer to contain the charge. I also added a sine wave inverter to operate the 110v appliances in the trailer, direct connected to the battery.After installing the panels on the roof, I don’t plug the trailer in anymore to charge it. The entire system is capable of running a few light appliances like TVs, power drills, etc. It cannot run the air conditioner, microwave, or other high power appliance. I have not experienced running out of power at night, but then I haven’t really tried to stress it. One time when the power was out in the house, I used the system to run a light and a drill. Nice to have a backup power source.Installation was easy, although I didn’t use the provided tiedown fasteners. I actually liked the tiedown fasteners described in the manual, which are rubber expanding bolts that hold the mounts secure from the back side. However, that was not what came with the panels. I found that the roof was actually something like 3/8 plywood decking, and used wood screws and proper roof sealant throughout.One hint I would give is to NOT try out the snap in power connectors before you are ready. They are unbelievably difficult to get apart again.I don’t know why everyone is so down on the controller. It works fine, and gives good status indications. Apparently the “ultimate” charge controller is supposed to be a Maximum power point tracking (MPPT) controller. But according to what I have read, this means it optimizes charging my knowing where the sun is at maximum, by remembering the peak power generation time of the panel. This would have no use in any case for a trailer, because that is going to change when you move the trailer.

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